Key takeaways
- Use ramps on a flat, hard, level surface, never on soft ground or a slope.
- Chock the wheels that stay on the ground, and set the parking brake.
- Drive up slowly and straight, ideally with a spotter guiding you.
- Do not work under a car supported only by ramps without extra support; many mechanics add jack stands as a backup.
- Inspect ramps for cracks, bends, or deformation before each use.
Low cars need ramps with a shallow approach angle, usually long, extended-length designs or ramps with a gentle first section. The wrong ramp scrapes the front bumper or splitter before the tires even climb. Before buying, measure your ground clearance and tire width, then match them to the ramp’s incline and weight rating.
Why Standard Ramps Fail on Sports Cars
Many conventional ramps use a steep incline, and the front lip of the car contacts the surface before the tire can climb. The issue is the approach angle, which is the maximum slope a car can climb without its front end touching. Sports cars, lowered cars, and cars with aero kits often have very small approach angles.
The fix is a ramp with a lower incline, a longer run, or a flat start section that lets the tires climb gradually. Some people also use wooden blocks as a bridge, but that is risky unless the stack is stable and rated for the load.
Ramp Styles Compared
| Style | Typical incline | Best for | Drawback |
|---|---|---|---|
| Standard steel ramps | Steep | Trucks, SUVs | Scrape low front ends |
| Extended-length ramps | Lower, gentle | Sports cars, lowered cars | Take more room to store |
| Plastic or composite low-profile ramps | Low | Light to mid-weight cars | Check weight ratings carefully |
| Aluminum ramps | Variable | Easy handling | Cost, check the rating |
| Drive-on lifts or jack stands alternative | Varies | Longer work sessions | Higher cost, setup effort |
Numbers That Matter
Incline angle
For a low car, an angle in the range of roughly 10 degrees or less is often cited as a starting point. Compare the ramp’s stated angle to your car’s approach angle if the manufacturer lists it, and measure the distance from the front bumper to the ground.
Weight rating
Ramps are rated per pair, often by gross vehicle weight. Choose a rating comfortably above your car’s weight, and check the manufacturer’s curb weight. Never exceed the stated limit.
Width and tire fit
Wide performance tires need wide ramp surfaces. Check the ramp’s inner width against your tire width, and confirm it has side lips or rails to help keep the tires from sliding off.
Many drivers start comparing low profile car ramps for sports cars because they are made with a shallow slope in mind.
Safety Rules You Should Not Skip
- Use ramps on a flat, hard, level surface, never on soft ground or a slope.
- Chock the wheels that stay on the ground, and set the parking brake.
- Drive up slowly and straight, ideally with a spotter guiding you.
- Do not work under a car supported only by ramps without extra support; many mechanics add jack stands as a backup.
- Inspect ramps for cracks, bends, or deformation before each use.
Rear-wheel-drive cars may need to be driven onto the ramp from the front, and front-wheel-drive cars can sometimes be reversed on instead. Read your owner’s manual for jacking and support points.
Materials and Storage
Steel is strong and often affordable but heavy. Aluminum is lighter and corrosion resistant but costs more. Reinforced plastic and composite ramps are lightweight and will not rust, but you need to verify their rating and avoid use where cracks are visible. Rubber feet or a non-slip base help keep the ramps from sliding on smooth concrete.
Consider storage. Extended-length ramps can be bulky, so measure your garage. Some designs fold or come apart for easier transport, which helps if you take your car to the track.
If you are also shopping for support gear, a pair of jack stands is a worthwhile addition for any work underneath the vehicle.
Measure your own car instead of trusting a general chart. Park on level ground, place a straight board against the tire, and measure the gap between the front lip and the floor. Then check the ramp’s first few inches of rise. If the car’s lip is two to three inches off the ground, the ramp’s leading edge needs to be thinner than that or have a very gentle slope, otherwise you will hit it.
Another trick drivers use is approaching the ramp at a slight angle or placing the ramp on a short, sturdy platform designed for it. These approaches only make sense if the setup is stable, so use manufactured accessories instead of improvised stacks of lumber. A ramp that shifts under load is more dangerous than one that scrapes a bumper.
If your car has a front splitter, diffuser, or low side skirts, protect them with ramps that have an extended entry. For track-day cars, many owners keep a lightweight set in the trailer or trunk. Consider the surface, too: smooth garage floors can allow ramps to slide, and a rubber mat under the ramp base or a ramp with grippy feet will help keep them in place.
Finally, read reviews from owners of cars similar to yours. Someone with a similar front lip height can tell you more than a spec sheet can, and photos of ramps in use often show clearance more clearly than a description. Stay skeptical of claims that a ramp fits every car, and double check the incline before ordering.
Common Questions
Can I use a jack instead of ramps?
Yes, but ramps are faster for oil changes. A floor jack with jack stands lifts the car without approach angle issues, though it takes more steps.
Will ramps damage my bumper?
They can if the approach angle is too steep. A lower incline or a staged start section helps prevent contact.
Are plastic ramps safe?
Many are rated for typical car weights, but you should check the stated limit, avoid use if damaged, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
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